Monday, August 16, 2010

True Stories from the Land of the Rising Sun

The weather was so weird this weekend. Ridiculously hot and humid, and overcast, so overcast that it felt like the sky was sitting about ten feet above the ground. Had that oppressive pre-thunderstorm feeling but never actually stormed. Accuweather said it was 86 degrees and "feels like 111", which is just insane. I went out onto the balcony yesterday for long enough to hang up laundry and came back in covered in sweat. It was so humid that, when I went outside from an air-conditioned store, my glasses fogged up... which was new. And to think, I used to say New York was humid in the summer. o_O;; Thankfully it was nicer today (still hot and humid, but the cloud cover lifted a bit). A few days of that was really bringing me down.

Anyhow. Just some fragments that don't necessarily fit into a larger narrative.

While the Japanese accept odd-colored hair and facial piercings without blinking, tattoos attract a lot of attention here. Apparently the only people who have tattoos are Yakuza, and many onsen (public bathhouses) have rules that forbid people with tattoos from using the facilities. I think I've answered more questions about my ink in the past few weeks here than in the past few years back home.

The old man who lives across from me is rumored to be Yakuza. He has tattoos, and no teeth. One of my fellow students attempted to strike up a friendly conversation with him, but with no success. The old woman he lives with (presumably his wife) is the one who walks her cat, on a leash, every day. I've exchanged a few friendly words with her now and then (on the order of "Your cat is so cute! I have a tabby cat too!"). She is also missing most of her teeth.

The Japanese stereotype of really healthy, energetic old people is definitely true. It's pretty common to see tiny, wrinkled grandparent-types riding bikes up steep hills. Or, you know, climbing Mt. Fuji.

The police cars, fire trucks and ambulances have loudspeakers as well as sirens. They proceed down the street with someone making an unending string of announcements over the siren. I haven't been able to make sense of it yet, but I can only imagine it's something along the lines of "Thank you very much for your kind attention! We apologize profusely for the inconvenience! Please do us the favor of driving safely!"

At the mall, the cops directing traffic in and out of the parking lot shout "irasshaimase" ("welcome to our store!") and "arigatougozaimasu!" to every single car. They must get tired of doing that all day.

Did I tell you that Momo-chan and I went to the Cold Stone in Aeon mall, and tipped them, and they sang a song like Cold Stone does, but it was crazy adorable because it was Japanese? I can't remember what I blogged already anymore. :/

Oh, we did karaoke last week with a really good group of people (a good chunk of whom, unfortunately, were on their last night at Yamasa). Lyrics to the English songs were in English with katakana above, so sometimes we amused ourselves by singing the katakana version. Chance-san put in "Dragostei din tei" and I ended up trying to sing it with him, which was super fun. Also did some Bowie, some TMBG, some ridiculous 80s music, Hey Ya!, you know, my usual karaoke fare. And there was definitely some drunken "Baby Got Back". Think we're planning to go again this week as a goodbye party for myself and Momo-chan.

One of the girls who came out with us was this German girl, who, despite what you might conclude from the following story, is actually completely awesome. We were talking about Bart Simpson for some reason at dinner and she busted out with "Oh, he's really funny! What was his thing? Eat my pants?"

She also told me my accent (in English) was hard to understand (as compared to Lee-kun's), because I talk very quickly. It's happened before, but it always brings me up short when someone accuses me of having an accent. Somehow I still feel like I'm the one without the accent, of course.

OMG I have so much to do this week. I bought gifts for the last few people on my list today, and a cheap duffel bag to haul stuff home in. Still have to figure out how I'm getting to Tokyo on Thursday. And I have to decide what I'm going to say for my goodbye speech. Eek.

This was my almond packaging today. I actually LOLed when I pulled it out of the cover.

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The other side was cute too.

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Also, I bought this at the thrift store today. It's maybe not the most disturbing thing I've ever seen, but it's up there, my friends. And it was in the bin with, you know, the rest of the kid's toys, like cute little Pokemon figures and cell phone charms of bunnies with oversized ears. I don't even know, man. Read on at your own risk.

wtf (toy)

wtf (toy) assembly instructions

hanabi

It was recently brought to my attention that I haven't updated this blog in over a week. Oops. Sumimasen ne! I've been pretty busy between keeping up with the more-advanced class and hanging out with folks.

I'm trying to enjoy my last week here to the fullest. It's a bittersweet feeling, having to prepare to leave just as I was starting to feel settled. And it's amazing how quickly you can start to feel attached to people when you see them for ~6 hours every day.

Last weekend was a big hanabi (fireworks) festival here. Okazaki is famous for its fireworks; people apparently come from all over Japan to see them.

One of Yamasa's pages says that "over 70 percent of Japanese fireworks are developed and produced here. The fireworks are usually new designs, and often are those used the following year throughout the rest of Japan - the show also has the flavour of a trade fair as buyers come to see the newest developments."

Due to some overly-vague directions, I failed to meet up with the group from Yamasa, so I just started walking toward Okazaki Castle. Soon enough I started to see people on the street who were dressed up for the festival (in yukata, which is to say, summer kimonos). They were super cute! Especially the boys. Yum.

Um, what was I saying? Oh, so I started to follow people who looked like they knew where they were going, and we ended up on the roof of one of the big department stores near the river (this is apparently where one watches fireworks from in Japan). We had a good view of both the fireworks going up from near the castle and the ones going up from farther off. (Apparently they have to set the bigger ones off across the river so they don't break windows. No joke.)

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Now, I'm not the world's biggest fan of fireworks shows (they're pleasant enough, but I find they all have a sort of sameness to them), but I gotta say: Okazaki's fireworks put every show I've ever seen in the past to absolute shame. That includes Niagara Falls, Epcot Center, and, yes, the big Macy's Fourth of July show in New York.

Okazaki's fireworks were prettier, more impressive, and classier -- no contest on any front. My favorite were the ones that went up like cherry trees covered in golden blossoms, and then the blossoms seemed to float down off the tree. So cool!! Also, man, crazy amount of munitions. For most of the show, there was so much happening at once that it felt like the grand finale of the shows back home! And this went on for an unbelievable 3+ hours.

Pictures don't do this kind of thing justice, but naturally I'm going to post some anyway.

So much going on at once.

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This is one of the cherry-tree ones. "Feel", by the way, is the name of the department store. I don't know why.

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One amusing thing: Along with people shouting "sugoi!" ("amazing!") and "kirei!" (pretty!) I kept hearing shouts of "bravo!" Really? Is that what they think we say?

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The kids are all dressed up. Super cute.

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Little kids get to wear yukata too!

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Sorry for the weird angles. I was trying to be a little circumspect about photographing people, which is a neat trick with a DSLR. >_>

A decent shot of how many people were on the roof.

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Since it was pretty dark, I was experimenting with the super high speed film settings on my camera. Ended up with some strange moody shots.

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After about an hour and a half, I got bored and decided to walk home. The fireworks continued the whole time, so I took some cool pictures of them reflecting in various, uh, reflect-y things. Because I'm artsy like that.

Starting to make my way home.

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God I love this picture. Yes, I'm awfully fond of the mirrors that keep you from getting hit by a car. Also I am an arsty snob.

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Reflections in a department store window.

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Finally, on an unrelated note: This cookie wrapper has a special message for you, the readers.

Happy time to you!